Ladies Fashions for January 1851
The evening costumes of the present season are characterized by profuse
trimming. The skirts of the newest dresses, excepting those composed of
very rich materials, are all very fully trimmed. Corsages, whether high
or low, are ornamented in some way or other. Flounces, employed to trim
the skirts of ball dresses, are made somewhat fuller than heretofore.
Even lace flounces, which used to be set on plain, are now gathered up
in slight fulness. To add still more to the appearance of amplitude in
dresses trimmed with lace, some dressmakers edge the skirts with a
fontange of ribbon. With ball dresses of transparent textures, trimmed
with flounces of the same, this fontange of ribbon is frequently placed
at the edge of the slip worn under the dress. Tulle dresses are now
fashionable for ball costume. Some pretty organdy muslins, intended for
very young ladies, have just been introduced. These dresses should be
made with two jupes, simply edged with a broad hem.
Cloth is adopted for morning walking dresses, redingote form, open
down the front, and embroidered in arabesque pattern, in silk braid and
other trimming; the sleeves are worked at bottom, and open, to admit
underneath cambric or muslin sleeves tight at the wrist; the body is
embroidered to match the skirts. With this redingote is worn a
pardessus of the same cloth, embroidered in front and at bottom with
braiding of from two to two and a half inches wide.
The more showy dresses, and a little décolletées, are square in front
(Louis XV. style), the body pointed, the skirt plain, and but few
flounces. The colors are sombre and plain; the materials are velvet,
satin, damask, watered, antique, and some plaids, for the theatres and
for half dress. These dresses are always worn with open sleeves, trimmed
Short velvet cloaks, richly embroidered either in satin stitch, silk
braid, or gimp, are in vogue, the preferred colors being burnt-bread and
black. Short velvet cloaks, of the paletot shape, half tight, trimmed
with lace, embroidered entirely in satin stitch, and with narrow
braiding, are also worn.
On mantelets of silk, entirely embroidered velvet ribbon is worn; or
stamped velvet flowers, upon the stuff, produce a very pleasing effect.
The braid used for the arabesque pattern is commonly plain, or has only
a thick cord, and is from half to three quarters of an inch wide.
Walking boots, entirely of leather, are the most fashionable.
In the Illustrations which we give this month:
I. Is a Cap of Alencon lace, with flat bows of ribbon, and lappets of
II. A Bonnet of pink satin, covered with cut black velvet. A trimming of
black lace encircles the crown. The bonnet may be lined either with pink
satin or with black velvet; and the under trimming consists of small
pink flowers. Strings of pink satin ribbon.
III. Engageantes of India muslin, with two rows of Mechlin lace, one
above the other.
IV. Velvet mantelet, with arabesque in silk braiding, a quarter of an
inch wide, and satin stitch, slightly fitting to the waist; wide
sleeves, and entirely embroidered.
V. (See the group of figures upon the following page.)
(I.) Evening Costume for a Bride, back view.—The headdress a wreath
of white roses, mingled with orange-blossom. Back hair arranged in
twists, in the style called nœud d' Apollon. Across the forehead
may be worn a narrow bandeau of pearls or diamonds. Dress of white crape
over white satin; front of the skirt with bouquets of the same flowers
as those in the wreath. The corsage has a berthe of folds of white
tulle. The sleeves slightly full, and ornamented on the shoulder with
epaulettes of tulle. Necklace, a single row of pearls. (II.) Costume
for an Evening Party.—Dress of brocade, the ground a dark violet
color, with large bouquets of flowers in a variety of hues.
A sortie de bal of cerulean blue satin, edged with a broad band of
velvet of the same color, on which a braid is disposed in a zigzag
pattern. The headdress of loops of narrow blue velvet ribbon fixed on
each side of the head. (III.) Bride's dress suited to the Nuptial
Ceremony.—Robe of white satin; the skirt ornamented with side
trimmings, consisting each of a row of lace, headed by a fronce of white
satin ribbon. This trimming is set on spirally up each side of the
skirt, and is attached at intervals by small bows of white satin ribbon.
The corsage is half high at the back, and is sloped somewhat lower in
front. The front of the corsage is trimmed with rows of lace set on
horizontally. On the neck is worn a chemisette of lace. The sleeves are
finished at the ends with a full trimming of white satin ribbon. The
under-sleeves are loose at the ends, and are edged with two rows of
lace. On each arm a bracelet of gold, one of the serpent pattern, and
the other fastened by a cameo snap. Bridal wreath of orange-blossom and
jasmin. A very large veil of tulle illusion is fixed under the wreath
instead of being thrown over it, as is sometimes customary.